Advanced Topics, Blog

How to Treat Dark Knees, Knuckles & Elbows

Darker knees, elbows and knuckles are the result of hyper-production of melanin in those areas. This skin condition is quite common in African skin types. While it is not a medical condition, even skin tone is generally associated with beauty. Uneven pigmentation can cause a strain on confidence if it is unwanted. To cosmetic formulators, it can be a challenge to formulate products that work for the knees, elbows and knuckles because they are typically more resistant to change. In this article, I would show you how to make effective formulas to treat hyperpigmentation in those areas.

What Causes Dark knees, elbows and knuckles?

This could be a result of exposure to damaging UV, friction, eczema and dry skin, medical reaction, disease, or a combination of the aforenamed factors, etc. Some people also have a genetic predisposition to it.

HOW TO TREAT DARK KNEES, ELBOWS AND KNUCKLES

You will need to apply more than one principle if you are to formulate effective treatments for those areas. We will take it one at a time.

Use Superior Skin Lighteners

This is the most obvious treatment to give. Base your formulas on at least 2 kinds of the most potent skin lighteners. (Like Kojic acid, Deoxyarbutin, Alpha Arbutin, Sepiwhite, Z-bright, etc). These skin lighteners are good at inhibiting the production of too much melanin. Other “weaker” but specialized actives can be added. They may be weaker in their inhibition of the pigment-producing enzyme but they are still very good at inhibiting melanin in other ways as co-actives. They help boost the skin lightening process.

A word of caution: Do not add actives beyond their restricted use rate – This could backfire, causing irritation and post-hyperpigmentation.

AHA’s are naturally-derived skin friendly acids.

Exfoliate the skin

Exfoliation removes excess build-up of dead cells on the skin. Often times those areas – the knees, knuckles and elbows, have quite a bit of unnecessary layers. This build-up also makes it possible for melanin to be concentrated in those areas. In some cases, exfoliation will correct the hyperpigmentation.  Ingredients like glycolic, and lactic (alpha-hydroxy acids) do the job pretty well but require know-how to prevent adverse reactions. If you feel adverse toward alpha hydroxy acids, you can go for ingredients like enzymes (papain and bromelain for example). It still takes a little know-how to formulate with enzyme, but it’s not as complex. In both cases, this reduces the duration of treatment and significant results are achieved quicker.

Slather on a Good Moisturizer

A Moisturizer with both water-loving and oil-loving components

Yes, you heard me right; moisturization. A less obvious option, but do you know that proper moisturization is super important for not just skin lightening but general skin health? The skin needs moisture to undergo a normal desquamation process. Desquamation is the body’s way of shedding old, dead skin cells. When this process is not functioning optimally, you have excess build up. Moisturizers also prevent dry skin, which can cause hyperpigmentation. With proper moisturization, the skin of the elbows, knuckles and knees stay hydrated preventing dryness and build-up of unwanted skin cells. Moisturizers will also help maintain results and reduce the incidence of treatment.

Wear a Good Sun Protection Cream

Wear SPF 30 at the very least.

Sun protection cannot be over-emphasized in any skin lightening treatment. Even when skin darkening isn’t caused by ultraviolet rays, they can worsen the condition. At the very least go for an SPF 30. Where possible, go higher. Always follow the manufacturer’s instruction on the application. With adequate UV protection, you can rest assured that your already sensitive pigment making cells will not be further stimulated and your skin lightening actives can go to work.

Summary

Treating dark knees, knuckles and elbows is not hard when you exfoliate, use skin lighteners, use a good moisturizer and protect your skin with a good sunscreen. Depending on the severity, the issue can be resolved in weeks, and the chance of reoccurrence is limited.