Moisturizer overdose? Yes, there is such a thing as a moisturizer overdose. Chances are, you may have already experienced it at least once in your lifetime. Ever gotten those tiny white (milky yellowish) spots after using a moisturizer, eye cream or maybe a moisturizing sheet mask? Individuals who have oily skin are especially more prone to this. In this post, we will show you what it is and how to prevent milia.
WHAT IS MILLIA
Millia can occur anywhere on the face – they usually occur mostly under the eyes, cheeks and nose. They show up suddenly – several into small clusters or just a few of them.
HOW IS IT FORMED?
These tiny ‘cysts’ are formed when dead skin cells or ‘comedogenic’ moisturizers clog up pores. Debris and sebum become trapped in the pores. As a result, these small cyst-like comedones are formed. One major cause of Millia comes from rich moisturizers for the face and eye creams. Most moisturizers come in emulsion forms, consisting of a blend of rich nourishing oils and humectants (cosmetic raw materials that help keep the skin hydrated). In non-emulsion water-based Formulars, humectants are the usual culprits. It can occur on anyone but oily skin types are especially prone to it.
RISK FACTORS
Apart from avoiding comedogenic ingredients, a formula with non-comedogenic ingredients can become a comedogenic formula. One sign that your formula will be comedogenic is if it feels heavy on the skin. In which case, it will be unsuitable for acne-prone individuals and individuals with oily skin.
FORMULATING TO PREVENT MILIA
Too much moisturization means that the skin’s pores can’t ‘breath’ because they are blocked, as a result, sebum is trapped underneath the skin. To prevent Millia, reduce the moisturizing factor of your product. The first place to investigate is those ingredients giving an occlusive effect. The challenge for the cosmetic formulator is to strike the right balance between a light-textured emulsion that still delivers adequate moisturization. For acne-prone individuals, your formulations must be light and non-clogging. Definitely stay away from comedogenic ingredients.
*There are different forms of Millia, we have only dealt with it in the context of cometics formulation.