When I first began studying chemistry, I was immediately drawn to the allure of plant-based materials. I was fascinated that the plants growing around us could contain molecules that could greatly benefit the health and appearance of our human bodies. This interest leads us to the topic of today’s column – a bit of a hidden gem in cosmetic chemistry. It’s not used very commonly. It’s not always appropriate to add it to a product. However, when it’s played to its strengths, it’s an absolute powerhouse of an ingredient and can easily differentiate you from your competitors.
Sometimes we can’t help but cause some skin irritation with our products. Shampoos with harsh surfactants, cleansers which are too aggressive, alpha-hydroxy acid serums which require a very acidic environment to be active, and fragrances which can irritate, the list of potential irritants in a product can sometimes be quite long. Left as is, these products might lead to customer dissatisfaction with the experience, even if the product is effective in every other regard. You may also have a customer who’s used other competing products and ended up with reddened, irritated skin. That’s where bisabolol can be your Ace card.
Bisabolol is usually sourced from chamomile, although it is also found in some tree barks. It’s a clear, oil-soluble liquid with a slight floral aroma. It’s an extremely powerful anti-inflammatory and soothing ingredient. I often use it in creams designed to treat extremely “angry” reddened skin as well as in tattoo-aftercare products. There is nothing else quite like it on the market.
Bisabolol works by inhibiting the body’s production of pro-inflammatory “cytokines”. Cytokines are signaling molecules that help our cells communicate when an immune response is needed. They are part of the body’s inflammation response towards irritation and trauma. By inhibiting these cytokines, bisabolol can reduce the inflammatory provocation and the skin remains calm and soothed. Its benefits last for hours and can provide welcome relief to people who suffer from acne, sunburn, eczema, and other skin conditions marked by significant inflammation.
BisaboloL doesn’t just stop there, however. It’s a multifunctional ingredient! That means that you can address multiple needs within a formulation with one ingredient, which is a sign of elegance in formulation design that reduces complexity and ingredient cost. Beyond being a powerful calming agent, bisabolol is a strong antioxidant. Our skin is constantly exposed to free radicals, unstable molecules that can damage healthy skin. Bisabolol stabilizes these free radicals and reduces overall oxidative stress that your skin experiences. This results in less skin damage and healthier skin structure.
Bisabolol can also act as a penetration enhancer. This allows other ingredients in the formulation to sink a little easier / deeper into the skin, which can enhance their effects. It also has some mild antimicrobial properties that can contribute to keeping healing skin free of excess harmful microbes.
Bisabolol is easy to use in formulations. It’s lipophilic, meaning that it dissolves well in oils. This makes it perfect for oil-based anhydrous products as well as emulsion products. It has a very light floral fragrance which lends itself well to cosmetics. I normally recommend using bisabolol at concentrations between 0.1% to 1%, depending on the application and the specifications for the formula. It’s a stable molecule and isn’t especially sensitive to light, heat, or oxygen. It’s compatible with just about every other cosmetic additive and is rarely the cause of any instability issues.
I think the real strength of bisabolol is that it does its job well without really any downsides. It’s almost a universally applicable ingredient, yet very few products seem to use it. Even the most sensitive/inflamed skin can benefit – in fact, that type of skin can perhaps benefit the most! As an ingredient in soothing gels, barrier repair creams, and calming shaving aftercare products, bisabolol can find a home just about anywhere.
Bisabolol is a perfect example of the type of natural ingredient which has always fascinated me. It’s isolated directly from the plant as a colorless, pleasant-smelling liquid. You don’t need much of it. It can be used on all types of skin. It has clinically proven benefits for anti-inflammation / soothing, which is a serious complaint of many customers seeking out new products. This broad spectrum of attractive qualities earns bisabolol my top recommendation. It’s not always necessary, but when it’s called for, you can count on it to do a wonderful job.
I encourage you to consider integrating bisabolol in your next skincare creation. We all deserve the chance to have calm, non-inflamed skin, and Nature has given us a potential solution in the form of bisabolol. In combination with other quality ingredients, it’s capable of producing some exceptional results. We will no doubt continue to find hidden jewels in plants. I for one can’t wait to see what the next one will be, and the benefits it will bring.
Happy formulating!